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Alfred Gratien

This smallish house produces Champagnes which are taut and unyielding in their youth (the malolactic is blocked), but which age superbly towards a pure and articulate old age. Its low profile may change now that it has been sold by former owner Alain Seydoux to the German sparkling wine specialists Henkell; let’s hope, at any rate, that the company doesn’t abandon its commitment to fermentation in oak-casks, surely responsible for many of its latent or overt complexities. Andrew Jefford - The New France







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