Perrier-Jouet has, like its sister house Mumm, undergone two changes of ownership in recent years, but finds itself in a happier situation with Allied Domecq than at the start of the nineties.
While Mumm’s style is built on Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, Perrier Jouet has a backbone of Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs (especially Cramant) and Meunier from the Marne. It’s hard to make much of a case for its trivial basic Brut non-vintage (called Grand Brut), but the non-vintage Blason de France is a wine with some pleasantly biscuity depths. The vintage wine is light but pure-flavoured, and the Blason de France Rose often shows pretty fruit characteristics. The Prestige cuveé here is the lavishly bottled Belle Époque, complete with its anemones designed by Galle, which appears in Vintage, Vintage Rose, and vintage Blanc de Blanc guises. The latter is a palpable Champagne de Terroir, coming exclusively from Cramant; the other two are graceful blends also built on Chardonnay from Cramant but complemented by lighter Pinots. In youth, this is a Champagne which can under whelm, given its extravagant packaging; with age, it sweetens fragrantly. Andrew Jefford- 'The New France'