Philipponnat has, for many years, been a kind of Jekyl and Hyde among Champagne houses. Bottles from its 5.5ha vineyard Clos des Goisses, spectacularly sited above the Marne canal at Mareuil, provided one of Champagne’s greatest sensorial insights into the region’s terroir;
When Bruno Paillard acquired the company via BCC in 1997, he said he found the basic stocks in such a poor state that two years work was needed in order to get the Brut non-vintage back into shape. The range is now much deeper and more concentrated.
The Clos des Goisses itself, meanwhile continues to be magnificently ripe and full-flavoured, amply rewarding a decade or two’s cellar patience with wave after wave of hazels, bread, and resonant orchard fruit. Part of this vineyard lies on one of Champagne’s most impressive and steepest south-facing slopes, with the rest on plateau land above it, hence the ripeness even in difficult years. The vineyard is planted with both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Andrew Jefford - 'The New France'